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BOOK REVIEWS
IRISH FLOUR MILLING 600-2000 by Andy Bielenberg
This is a well written informative book covering several aspects of the Irish Flour milling industry from the earliest times to date. There is no doubt that flour played a vital role in post Famine human nutrition but was a luxury in the short era of potato dominance.
The technique of having several authors deal with their specialist topic is both an advantage and a disadvantage. Their expertise and the quality of the information is unsurpassed but there are gaps. Coverage of Victorian mills seems limited and there are few illustrations of the many fine stone buildings which are being converted to apartments or demolished at the moment. This might be a lost opportunity.
Colm Rynne who is known for his work as an industrial archaeologist reveals the detail of the earlier mills in a stimulating piece illustrating the early history of milling.
Richard Harbison has written the chapter on the influence of the Quakers who are synonymous with the flour milling in Ireland. This covers their influence in what was the largest sector of the Irish processed food industry.
Norman Campion tells the more recent story from the viewpoint of a practical working miller. The decline of the industry and consolidation of the mills has been a feature as well as widespread import of flour.
This is a well produced work on the history and economy of flour milling in Ireland and is an addition to the library of any food scientist.
Lilliput Press, Dublin, 2004
ISBN 1-84351019-7 €20
A LITTLE HISTORY OF IRISH FOOD
The publication of this book in Ireland followed a series of programmes about food in Ireland produced by R.T.E. and compared by Regina Sexton who is also its author. It was the TV programmes the stimulated me into purchasing a copy and my comments are as follows.
This book is yet another recipe book, however, having said that, it does provide the reader with a glimpse as its title suggests into some of the history associated with Irish Foods. Frankly the book could do without the preparation of foods and extended its historical significance much more.
The book which is published by Gill & Macmillan is well written and graphically illustrated reflecting a high level of research and scholarship.
First Irish Edition 2001, Gill & Macmillan in association with R.T.E. Commercial Enterprises.
ISBN: 0 7171 3378 8
LETHAL LOZENGES AND TAINTED TEA by John Postgate
Professor Postgate has compiled a biography of his remarkable great grandfather who campaigned throughout his life for wholesome food. In the nineteenth century food adulteration was commonplace. The colourings in sweets were a particular problem as red lead and other toxic compounds were common colourants. Alum was frequently added to bread. Postgate demanded laws to eradicate the practices in the retail food business.
The Lancet supported his campaign and highlighted the extent of the problem with a series of reports articles and letters. It was in Birmingham that he gained municipal support at public meetings resulting in a petition to parliament. A government Select committee chaired by Scholefield heard evidence of the that pickles were kept green by boiling the vinegar in copper vats but when the manufacturer discovered the toxic effect of the copper he ceased.
There then followed complaints because the customers could not be educated to expect that toxicity of the food would be considered seriously. Charles Dickens observed "green as it was, it seems that the customers were still greener" the expected. Postgate's work resulted in the 1860 Adulteration of food and drink Act . the campaign continued until the improved 1872 act amended in 1875. This established the network of Public Analysts which is effectively the birth of food science.
Well worth a read to discover the basis and background to the study of food.
Berwin Books, Studley Warwickshire, B80 7LG
ISBN: 1 85858 178 8
Price £11.95 STG
FAST FOOD NATION by Eric Schlossler
Fast Food nation graphically describes the American meat industry from farm to burger bar. It illustrates clearly the consequences of a totally trade oriented attitude to food production, food inspection and food service. There is particular insight into the deficiencies of meat control and inspection. This is significant in Irish terms because the same errors and malpractices are unlikely to be absent in the Irish industry.
There is specific detail on the on the practices which spread E coli 157 and the failed procedures which were intended to prevent such problems. Schossler indicates that the catering sector treats its staff as badly as the farming industry treats the animals. H also reveals the unsanitary practices in the kitchens of fast food restaurants.
Altogether not a pretty picture and even allowing for hyperbole this book is worthwhile for its illustration of the lower end of the whole food sector.
Allen Lane, The Penguin Press, London 2001
ISBN: 0 713 99602 1
Price £9.99 STG
THE GREAT FOOD GAMBLE by John Humphrys
This book was recommended to me by Darina Allen after her talk to the IFSTI AGM in November 2001. It paints a disturbing picture of the development of the food industry especially in Britain since WW 2 .
Interestingly John Humphries commences the story with the submarine attacks on the ships bringing food to Britain and develops the story in the context of the post war drive to attain self sufficiency arriving at a state of gross overproduction of cheap food. He develops the theme that food which is cheap on the retail shelf is nor cheap in the overall context of subsidies, environmental damage and animal distress.
There are chapters on fish farming, pesticides, soil, antibiotics, GM, and the organic counter attack. In some ways the book is anti technology which can be regarded as provocative or thought provoking. There is a strong environmentalist focus and phrases like "betraying our children by squandering our rich agricultural heritage" trip out of the pages. There is no mention of the battle against inner city rickets, scurvy or other malnutrition.
One bloomer links the elimination of polio with antibiotics which betrays the author's non technical background.
The style is easily readable, the message is undisguised by any contrary view. It will be swallowed whole and undigested by the by the ecologically constipated. The book is well referenced and has a comprehensive index.
Coronet Books, Hodder & Stoughton, 2001,
ISBN: 0 340 77046 5
Price £7.99 STG